Glenmar Labs

"Some of the Best Labs you'll ever meet!"

 
Breeders: Joan & Mark Mueller                   E-Mail : Glenmarlabs@comcast.net

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Frequently Asked Questions:

Link to information about Labradors  http://www.yourpurebredpuppy.com/reviews/labradorretrievers.html

(1) What checks do you on your dogs before breeding?

We believe careful consideration should be given before deciding to breed. Our dogs who are bred have had their hips and elbows x-rayed to rule out any dysplasia, and are registered with the O.F.A (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals). Also, they have been cleared by an Opthalmologist annually for P.R.A. (Progressive Retinal Atrophy) and registered with C.E.R.F. ( Canine Eye Registration Foundation).  It is our goal and every effort, to produce healthy, happy, Labrador puppies.
 

(2) What advise do you give when helping me choose a new Puppy?

There are key questions all prospective puppy owners should ask the breeder from whom they are considering acquiring a puppy. Some of these questions pertain to the genetic background of the puppy and will help ensure that you are getting a healthy, happy, sturdy Labrador puppy. Of course, there are no absolute guarantees. All you can do is make certain that the breeder of your puppy has done all they can do to provide their puppies with the best chance of a life free from serious genetic problems. Sometimes even despite the best efforts of the most well respected and reputable breeders, a problem will arise in a Labrador. The reasons for these occurrences are unknown. Some attribute them to a recessive gene somewhere in the genealogy of the Labrador and some have expressed an opinion with regard to the affects of environmental factors. To help you to determine if the person presenting you with a prospective new family member is a reputable breeder, consider the following:

OFA Certification
An OFA hip certification is absolutely necessary for any Labrador being bred. Labradors with hip displasia should never be bred. The x-rays for an OFA hip certification are performed at age two or older. A Preliminary OFA, which can be done at age one, is a good advance indication of a Labrador’s hips; but does not guarantee the OFA certification performed at age two will pass. A Labrador grows between ages one and two and the hips can change. Insist on seeing, for yourself, the hip OFA certification of the dam (mother) and sire (father). All reputable breeders will freely give you a copy of each. OFA rates passing hips as Excellent, Good, and Fair. These ratings are spelled out on each certificate and an OFA number is assigned.

We have been told by people who call looking for a puppy that some breeders they have contacted informed them that it is not necessary to have the dam’s hips OFA certified, only the sire’s hips. Others reported that the breeder told them the hips were x-rayed, the veterinarian performing the x-ray said the hips were "fine", so the breeder did not bother to send the x-rays to OFA for certification. Some have told us they were given just a number that was the supposed OFA certificate number. Always ask to see the certificates, never take someone’s word on it. If a reputable breeder has gone through the expense and effort to have hips x-rayed, why would they not forward the x-rays to OFA for certification? Why would they not want to show you the passing certificates?

CERF Certification
Another certification for both the dam and the sire is the CERF Eye Certification. PRA is another genetic concern in the breed. PRA causes blindness. Once again, all Labradors being bred should have a CERF certificate, which reflects a date within a one-year time period prior to the breeding of your puppy. The CERF examination and certification are performed yearly on all breeding Labradors as PRA can present itself at any time.

Pedigree
The pedigree of your puppy can provide a multitude of useful information, apart from the parentage, or "family tree" of the puppy. Breeders should offer you a copy of the dam and sire’s pedigree and some will even prepare a pedigree of your puppy, combining the pedigrees of the dam and sire into one pedigree for you. Some of the other information sometimes included on a pedigree are the AKC registration number of each Labrador in the puppies pedigree, the OFA certifications of each generation, the color, and all the titles earned by every Labrador who contributed to the genetic background of the puppy. A pedigree will also provide the kennel name that bred each Labrador in your puppy’s pedigree. Many of the pedigrees can be traced back to a well-known English kennel, which will provide interesting facts into the history involved in the pedigree. The older kennels and breeders can be easily researched in many of the books authored regarding the history of the breed.

Veterinary Care
Puppies should be examined and certified in good health by a veterinarian. Two sets of shots and three wormings are usually provided for each puppy by the breeder. The first set of shots being administered at five to six weeks of age and the second at eight to nine weeks of age. The wormings are completed at three, five and seven weeks of age. Of course, if the breeder has agreed to let you take home your puppy at six weeks old, then you would be responsible for the eight-week shot and third worming. Breeders who competitively exhibit their Labradors in the conformation ring at dog shows most often will keep some of the puppies until they are a bit older, i.e., eight to ten weeks, to allow them time to determine the "show" potential of those particular puppies. You should always take your new puppy to your veterinarian within 72 hours for an examination. An independent examination by a veterinarian of your choice will not only protect you, but the breeder, as well.

 Other important indicators of a reputable breeder are the time, hard work, dedication, and finances invested into their line of Labradors. Many people have been well educated to beware of the many puppy mills producing litter after litter of improperly bred Labradors in conditions that are inhumane, crowded, and filthy. You must also be wary of the "back yard" breeders, who couple any two Labradors together without consideration to their pedigrees, hips, eyes, temperament, and genetic disposition. Not only are these breeders detrimental to the Labrador breed, it is cruel to produce puppies that will not be able to enjoy the experiences inherent to the breed, such as running, swimming, retrieving, hunting, etc., because to do so causes them pain and suffering. Not only are the veterinary costs of such an inflicted Labrador expensive to the owner but the Labradors will have a shorter life span, comprised of less then optimum quality of life.

A person choosing to enter into the world of the Labrador should first research the breed as well as any potential breeder you are considering. You should be aware that most responsible and reputable breeders will ask you many questions pertaining to yourself, your family, your lifestyle, your home, and your intentions with regard to the puppy, at the same time that you are assessing the breeder. Do you want a Labrador for a pet and companion, to hunt and retrieve, to show in conformation competition, to train in obedience, etc.? These are all important aspects of choosing the right Labrador for you. The breeder will help you as they are just as concerned to find the right home for each of their puppies as you are in finding and choosing the right Labrador.

A person, whom has entered the world of Labradors and became a responsible, reputable breeder has done so because of their love of the breed and their desire to become involved in bettering the breed, not to make a profit. They enjoy the many aspects of the multi-purpose Labrador and typically get involved in titling and competing with the Labradors in the conformation ring, obedience, field trials, hunt trials, tracking, agility, and many more. Any person who simply breeds Labradors just to produce puppies for selling and profit does not truly have the best interest of the Labrador breed in their hearts.  (from www.pembrokelabradors.com)

          HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH A PUPPY

      

  • Remove film from box and load camera

  • Remove film box from puppy's mouth and throw in trash

  • Remove puppy from trash and brush coffee grounds from muzzle

  • Choose a suitable background for photo

  • Mount camera on tripod and focus

  • Find puppy and take dirty sock from mouth

  • Place puppy in pre-focused spot and return to camera

  • Forget about spot and crawl after puppy on knees

  • Focus with one hand and fend off puppy with other hand

  • Get tissue and clean nose print from lens

  • Take flash cube from puppy's mouth and throw in trash

  • Put cat outside and put peroxide on the scratch on puppy's nose

  • Put magazines back on coffee table

  • Try to get puppy's attention by squeaking toy over your head

  • Replace your glasses and check camera for damage

  • Jump up in time to grab puppy by scruff of neck and say, "No, outside! No, outside!"

  • Call spouse to clean up mess

  LIFE LESSONS LEARNED FROM A DOG

   1. If you stare at someone long enough, eventually you'll get what you want.

   2. Don't go out without ID.

   3. Be direct with people; let them know exactly how you feel by piddling on their shoes.

   4. Be aware of when to hold your tongue, and when to use it.

   5. Leave room in your schedule for a good nap.

   6. When you do something wrong, always take responsibility (as soon as you're dragged out from under the bed).

   7. If it's not wet and sloppy, it's not a real kiss. 

   DOG PROPERTY LAWS

   1.  If I like it, it's mine.

   2.  If it's in my mouth, it's mine.

   3.  If I can take it from you, it's mine.

   4.  If I had it a little while ago, it's mine.

   5.  If it's mine, it must never appear to be yours in any way.

   6.  If I'm chewing something up, all the pieces are mine.

   7.  If it just looks like mine, it's mine.

   8.  If I saw it first, it's mine.

   9.  If you are playing with something and you put it down, it automatically becomes mine.

   10. If it's broken, it's yours.

    HOW DOGS AND MEN ARE THE SAME

   1.  Both take up too much space on the bed.

   2.  Both have irrational fears about vacuum cleaning.

   3.  Both mark their territory.

   4.  Neither tells you what's bothering them.

   5.  The smaller ones tend to be more nervous.

   6.  Neither does any dishes.

   7.  Both fart shamelessly.

   8.  Neither of them notice when you get your hair cut.

   9.  Both like dominance games.

   10. Both are suspicious of the postman.

   11. Neither understands what you see in cats.

    HOW DOGS ARE BETTER THAN MEN

   1.  Dogs do not have problems expressing affection in public.

   2.  Dogs miss you when you're gone.

   3.  Dogs feel guilty when they've done something wrong.

   4.  Dogs admit when they're jealous.

   5.  Dogs are very direct about wanting to go out.

   6.  Dogs do not play games with you-except fetch (and they never laugh at how you throw).

   7.  You can train a dog.

   8.  Dogs are easy to buy for.

   9.  Dogs understand what "no" means.

   10. Dogs mean it when they kiss you.

    THE TOP TEN REASONS WHY A DOG IS BETTER THAN A WOMAN

   10. A dog's parents will never visit you.

   9. A dog loves you when you leave your clothes on the floor.

   8. A dog limits its time in the bathroom to a quick drink.

   7. A dog never expects you to telephone.

   6. A dog will not get mad at you if you forget its birthday.

   5. A dog does not care about the previous dogs in your life.

   4. A dog does not get mad at you if you pet another dog.

   3. A dog never expects flowers on Valentine's Day.

   2. The later you are, the happier a dog is to see you.

   1. A dog does not shop.